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In the mirror, I appear to be wearing oversized gilded pantaloons, perceptible only to me. Children sit in a stone basin pretending to be sea nymphs, and nearby resides a talking pea in a showcase, alongside a imposing mound of mattresses. This is the world of Hans Christian Andersen (1805-1875), a leading 1800s widely adored writers. I’m in Odense, located on Funen in the southern part of this Nordic country, to discover the author's timeless impact in his native city a century and a half after his demise, and to find a few fairytales of my own.

The Museum: The Andersen Museum

Andersen's House is the town's museum celebrating the writer, including his childhood house. A museum representative notes that in past designs of the museum there was little focus on Andersen’s stories. The writer’s life was examined, but The Little Mermaid were nowhere to be found. For guests who travel to Odense seeking storytelling magic, it was a little lacking.

The renovation of Odense city centre, diverting a primary street, provided the opportunity to reimagine how the city’s most famous son could be honored. An international design contest granted Japanese firm the renowned designers the project, with the curators’ new approach at the center of the layout. The remarkable timber-clad museum with interwoven spiral spaces launched to much acclaim in 2021. “We have attempted to build a place where we move beyond simply describing the author, but we speak in the manner of Andersen: with humour, irony and outlook,” notes the expert. Even the gardens embrace this concept: “This is a landscape for explorers and for large beings, it's planned to make you feel small,” he explains, a goal achieved by strategic landscaping, manipulating verticality, proportion and many winding paths in a deceptively small space.

Andersen's Impact

He authored multiple memoirs and regularly contradicted himself. HC Andersens Hus embraces this concept fully; typically the views of his acquaintances or fragments of letters are shown to gently question the his narrative of incidents. “The writer is the narrator, but his account isn't always accurate,” says the curator. The result is a fascinating whirlwind tour of his personal story and creations, mental approaches and favorite stories. It’s stimulating and whimsical, for mature visitors and children, with a additional lower-level imaginary world, Ville Vau, for the smallest guests.

Visiting the Town

Back in the physical town, the small city of this Danish city is picturesque, with historic pathways and historic timber buildings painted in vibrant hues. The author's presence is all around: the street signals show the writer with his distinctive characteristic hat, bronze footmarks give a free Andersen walking tour, and there’s a sculpture trail too. Each summer this commitment reaches its height with the annual Andersen celebration, which honors the author’s legacy through art, dance, theatre and music.

During my visit, the multi-day event had hundreds of events, the majority were without charge. During my time in this place, I meet colorful performers on stilts, spooky creatures and an author double telling stories. I listen to contemporary performances and see an remarkable evening show featuring acrobatic dancers coming down from the municipal structure and hanging from a mechanical arm. Future activities this year are lectures, creative sessions for all ages and, broadening the narrative tradition further than the writer, the city’s annual wonder event.

Every excellent magical places need a castle, and Fyn boasts over a hundred manors and stately homes across the island

Cycling and Exploration

As in other Danish regions, bicycles are the perfect means to travel around in Odense and a “cycling highway” winds through the urban core. From my accommodation, I ride to the public waterside bathing area, then into the countryside for a circuit around Stige Ø, a compact territory connected by causeway to the mainland. Town dwellers picnic here in the evening, or take pleasure in a quiet hour angling, aquatic activities or swimming.

Returning to town, I dine at a local eatery, where the culinary offerings is based on Andersen themes and tales. The poem Denmark, My Native Land is highlighted during my meal, and proprietor Nils Palmqvist shares excerpts, translated into English, as he serves every dish. Such encounters frequent in my time in Odense, the local residents appreciate narratives and it appears sharing tales is constantly available here.

Manor House Visits

Each wonderful fairytale destinations need a fortress, and Fyn contains numerous historic homes and manor houses across the island. Traveling briefly from Odense, I tour Egeskov Castle, the continent's best-preserved historic fortress. While much of it are accessible to the public, the castle is also the family home of the aristocratic owners and his partner, the princess. I ponder if she might sense a small legume through a pile of {mattresses